A couple months ago a friendly little bird, well connected in the Seattle food scene, sent me an invite to a private event at Salumi (thanks again A!). The party was being offered by publisher Harper Collins to celebrate the publication of Mario Batali's new book, Molto Italiano.
I was tickled pink with the invite--lucky me--and really touched by her generosity but initially even I had my qualms about going because author book signings have never been my cuppa. I avoid standing in long lines as much as possible and as much as I love books I'm not really into autographs.
But this event was taking place at Salumi, one of my top places to eat in Seattle and the Batali family was cooking for the occasion--recipes from the book and from Salumi's repertoire. Knowing all the good food that is to be had at this place was incentive enough for me to go so of course I happily sent in my RSVP and looked forward to the day.
It was to be an hour reception and we were encouraged to be prompt. At 5:30 I was one of around 10 people waiting for the door to open (the next 40 or 50 arrived soon after). We were told there would be three tables with three themes in three rooms. We were also told there would be 45 minutes to eat at our hearts content and have a book signed for us.
"Eat and drink as much as you can. It has been a long day for all of us (there had been a few sold-out signing events earlier that day). At 6:30 we will close shop."
Most of the attendees were people in the book business, buyers from Amazon, Costco, etc, shop owners in the city, booksellers, food industry people, food critics even. After greeting Mr. Batali (the father) I walked to the end of the shop to greet Mr. Batali (the son) who had a few tall stacks of his book, an orange Sharpie pen and was chatting and signing copies of his book for the guests.
While waiting in line, I bumped, once again, into one of my favorite food writers, the PI's Hsiao-Ching Chou (HCC: Haven't we met before? Was it at the Giada De Laurentiis event? V: Actually, it was the day of the Ruth Reichl podcast interview") who was wearing a lovely silver and pearl necklace that caught my eye, made by a local jeweler and that I was told by the owners of Capers in Freemont--whose owners were also in attendance--is available at their shop. But I digress...
Pleasantries were exchanged and a book was signed by the author. I quickly and giddily moved aside, book in hand and headed towards the front of the back room, where the food platter laden tables had been set up. I sat my book on a corner, grabbed a glass of red wine and a plate and proceeded to taste--over the next 40 minutes or so-- a little bit of at least four or five of the dishes served for the crowd.
Oregano Sausage with Broccoli Rabe, Salumi Aglio e Olio, Cotecchino in Jail, Spicy Pepper Stew, Pork Loin Porcetta. What fabulous food, wine and great conversation! There was even an opera singer by the name of Steve Thoreson whose voice was so mesmerizing I had to ask who he was, where he sang and why he was not with Seattle Opera. This guy can sing like nobody's business and his rendition of the Act I duet of La Bohème had me absolutely verklempt.
It was only after finishing my Cotecchino in Galera, one of the tastiest things I've ever had in my life, that I noticed these lovely confections sitting in the table in front of me. There was a tray piled mile-high of what seemed to be lovely biscotti which I was sure had been just baked for the event.
I had one for dessert. Then another. They were much softer than a biscotti but with the same appearance and size. When I asked what they were I was told they were called Unscotti. A single baked biscotti. Anise flavored. No need for a cup of coffee to dunk them in.
While I savoured my cookie I wondered if Molto Italiano included the recipe. But a quick browse with my slightly oily fingers left me hankering for a recipe. When I asked one of the Batali's who happened to go by, cheerfully walking around filling wine glasses, I was told that it was Gina's (Mr. Batali's daughter and co-owner of Salumi) recipe and she would not share it with anyone. It was a secret!
So I did what any food lover would have done in my place: at 6:25 I took one last cookie on my way out the door, wrapped it securely in a napkin, walked to Elliot Books to pick up a copy of Sunset and then walked the rest of the way home from there.
Mr. C never tasted or even saw the cookie crumbs. In my heart of hearts I just could not stop thinking about them. They were so delicious and soft and delicate that I fantasized of getting a hold of the recipe to make them at home.
But I figured it was a family heirloom none of the Batali's would part with. I was wrong.
Not only are these wonderful people great hosts and cooks but they are truly generous with their food knowledge and know-how.
All it took was taking advantage of a recent lunch at Salumi to ask Gina for the recipe and permission to print it. Ms. Batali said to use anise oil and not anise extract. A quarter teaspoon. That is all you need. She gets her anise oil at Pike Place Market. She also mentioned that the key to these treats is to undercook them. 25-27 minutes, no more. They should taste as if they are a little raw.
I baked mine yesterday, to have for dessert with the Yogurt Gelato I had just purchased from Bottega Italiana (you have not lived until you taste their Pear Gelato). The tray went untouched for all of 5 minutes. The chicken was not even cooked and we were eating these already as an appetizer.
There were a few compliments (even when mine half as pretty as Gina's) and more cookies were polished off with gelato and dessert wine. More compliments. By the end of the evening, the tray was empty.
Make these. You will love them too.
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