Down the street from Emile Zola's Belly of Paris and l'église Saint Eustache stands of my favorite places to peruse and shop at whenever I travel to the city of lights.
E. Dehillerin is a fascinating "batterie de cuisine" archaeological site of sorts. Its tricky to find if you have never been there and once you get in it can be difficult to leave which makes it even more exciting to seek out and explore
This is no Williams Sonoma, with its lovely baked goods scents emanating from the stove, the fabulous lighting, immaculate housekeeping and savvy retail-tainment and merchandising strategies.
Nor is it similar to Seattle's own, Sur La Table, one of the best cook stores anywhere--as those of us lucky to live driving or walking distance to it, or travel from out of state and even overseas to shop in it can attest.
E. Dehillerin is messy, dusty, dark and musty. The shelves look as if they have not been touched or cleaned since 1820. There is so much empty, disheveled and unatractive window space--with haphazardly placed odd sized pieces of wood dividing shop from window displays--that I've had fantasies of Simon Doonan going absolutely bonkers sprucing the place up.
But do not be fooled by appearances. The things you will find in this green corner will blow your mind! This is a veritable cave of wonders. Wonderful knives of all grades, sizes and materials, for lefties or right-handed cooks. The best copper pots and pans in unimaginable proportions.
Porcelain terrines, escargot and oyster serving dishes, silicone baking molds, piping tips of all types, mortars and pestles, dangerously sharp mandolines, lovely olive wood utensils and most everything serious chefs and amateur home cooks can dream of.
The staff is a treat too. I'm always amazed at how they can find anything there-- the dynamics between them are quite the sight to see and hear.
I always get a big kick just observing them out of the corner of my eye while browsing around--not to mention the cute way they wrap everything with the handwritten invoices and receipts.
And you better be nice to the men in the blue smock-like coats, smiling your way around the shop's dusty shelves and narrow hallways and try to address them in French, not only because it is the polite and nice thing to do but also because--whether in English or Français-- you will need their help.
For example, when it comes to find out what things actually cost. I did not see a single price posted on the items, only labeled with numbered codes that the staff look up in long lists while they bicker and make snappy comments at each other.
E. Dehillerin is a shop full of charm and I have found their prices to be very reasonable even with VAT. And lots of Americans seem to agree.
Whenever I've been there the place was bustling with shoppers, may of them from our shores--many of them women--also looking for kitchen treasures in this lovely place that has not only withstood the test of time but looks the part too.
And what better way to end a day of shopping than resting your tired feet and arms from schlepping those heavy bags full of kitchen gadgetry around than to stop around the corner at Au Pied de Cochon.
Order some treats from their raw bar with a cold Chablis and you'll be in no rush to go back to the hôtel or flat. This place is open 24 hours a day! Now isn't that just magnifique?
E.Dehillerin
18-20 Rue Coquilliere
Paris, France
Telephone: 33.1.42.36.5.13
Fax: 33.1.42.36.54.80
[email protected]
